Collection: U N I T 7 D O C U M E N T S

R E S E A R C H

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RESOURCE: www.ethicalfashionforum.com
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E T H I C A L  F A S H I O N :
ethical fashion represents an approach to the design,
sourcing and manufacture of clothing which maximises
benefits to people and communities while minimising
impact on the environment.
 
S U S T A I N A B I L I T Y :
The term sustainable is used throughout this site in
the context of both social and environmental issues.
 
S O C I A L :
Increasing the capacity and wellbeing of the people 
and communities behind fashion. Any fashion business
depends on the people behind it. In a broader context,
poverty and exploitation of the human workforce behind
fashion affects the stability of the industry itself.
 
E N V I R O M E N  T A L :
Minimising the environmental impact of all business
operations, throughout the supply chain.
ETC awareness , investment...
 

 

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E X H I B I T I O N _
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love this technique

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T O P I C :

S U S T A I N A B I L I T Y 
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M Y  W E I R D  O B S E S S I O N 

- collecting and gathering random objects / waste/  
- fascination about the origins of items/ clothes
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T H E   P R O C E S S   O F  P R O D U C T I O N , D I F F E R E N T

P L A C E  W H E R E   T H E  G A R M E N T   I S  :

 

- DESIGNED

- MANUFACTURED

- SOLD

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G R E E N P E A C E T A L K

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Myers, W. (2015) Bio art: Altered realities. United Kingdom: Thames & Hudson.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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D O  H O  S U H_

-primary research at Victoria Miro Gallery

-question of origins, identity within social and
environmental context

-fabric buildings of artists's ''homes''

-I love the details and fabric manipulation is
precious

- what I like: see through fabric with construction,
possible FUNCTIONALITY of objects / illusion? /

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C O N S U M P T I O N 
 A N D   W A S T E _
 
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W A N G    Q I N G S O N G _ 

- sense of hope for future and dignity of his human objects
- topic: fast changing society
- Influence -criticism of media , power, what is fake what is real?

REF: csm library, view bibliography
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A L E X I S 

R O C K M A N 

- contemporary artist known for his 
paintings that provide rich depictions
of future landscapes as they might
exist with impacts of climate change
and evolution influenced by genetic
engineering
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Alexis Rockman, The Farm

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Alexis Rockman (2017) in Wikipedia. Available at: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alexis_Rockman (Accessed: 21 February 2017).
Alexis Rockman (2016) Available at: http://alexisrockman.net/projects/ (Accessed: 21 February 2017).
Myers, W. (2015) Bio art: Altered realities. United Kingdom: Thames & Hudson.


 

 

 

 

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M O S C H I N O 

2 O I 7 _

- idea of consumption, advertisement, global and recycled fashion
- REF: VOGUE.COm


- I honestly dont like this version of reacting on consumption ...
it is way too obvious and naive
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Henrik Spohler
-alternation of land

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Shiitake Mushroom Farm, Germany

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REF: Stahl, C., Schmoll, F. and Moseley, A. (2013) Henrik Spohler: The third day. Germany: Hatje/Cantz.


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PLASTIC EATING FUNGUS

Miselium

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WOLFGANG TILLMANS

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_fascination about origin of found objects_
- collection -
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M A A R T E N   V A N   D E N   E Y N D E
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Preservation of Ikea cup

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REF: Tillmans, W., Ruf, B. and Zürich, K. (2012) Wolfgang Tillmans. Neue Welt. Germany: Taschen GmbH.
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Gabriel Orozco- Sandstars

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Brooks, K. (2012) An exquisite journey through the mundane, GABRIEL OROZCO. Available at: http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2012/11/23/gabriel-orozco-asterisms-_n_2095301.html (Accessed: 25 February 2017).








J A M E Y S T I L I N G - T H E E V O L U T I O N O F I V A N P A H S O L A R

-men altering landscape in a good way/ beneficial
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T O S H I O  S H I B A T A _
 
-Mankind changing environment
-fascinating landscape altered by men
-amazing tactile reference, reminding me
of knitted structures
- inflated art, inflated knit


The landscape has been and continues to be altered
by ambitious human activities
linked to political,
social, economic, climactic, and aesthetic forces.

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J O N A T H A N  S M I T H _ 

- rivers, glaciers, landscapes 
- looking like an oil in nature 
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Stream #1

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E M I  A N R A K U J I 

- association to altered landscapes
- private view, details , personal desires
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EMI ANRAKUJI/ipy

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Private landscapes- primary research

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N2

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CONSUMPTION KILLS ENVIRONMENT _

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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THE OLDEST LIVING THINGS IN THE WORLD by Rachel Sussman 
REF:http://www.rachelsussman.com/portfolio/#/oltw/
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Rachel Sussman/ Fer: rachelsussman.com

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Cheng-Hsu Chung- Human: Mountain Quintet no.3

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Primary research- Becoming , exhibition at Royal College of Art London




































I B R A H I M M A H A N A
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- Exhibition in White Cube Bermondsey 
- I liked the huge scale exposition 
-  textile jute pieces sewn together 
looking quiet random, but actually quiet 
beautiful. 

Inspiration for fixing torn clothes:

METHODS
- darning , mending
- running stitch
- back stitch 
- whip stitch 
- slip stitch 
 
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detail from the exhibition

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Reddress Hong Kong Miele/ Google images

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M E T H O D :
 
S Q U E E Z I N G
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Process of packing and recycling of ''unwanted clothes''

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Z A B B A L E E N _
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People living in this community near Cairo /Egypt/
are able to recycle more than 80% of waste.
In comparison to Western world that recycle less than 30%


- they take a part all of the thrown products and they
recycle every single part of material separately .

- cons-
causing diseases because of the terrible working
conditions and lack of protection with hazardous
waste and low hygiene standards

INSPIRATION :

narrowing down the materials that I am going to
work with to NON RECYCLABLE ones, consisting of
more than 1 material within one product /packaging/
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Zabbaleen community /Google images

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Olaf Breuning , Smoke bombs

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Repurposing a nostalgic plastic material

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LUCY AND GEORGE ORTA

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3D reaction on my research

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D O N A T I O N   
L V    L E A T H E R:

- collaboration with BA WW Student MATTHEW N.
- after his placement year in Luis Vuitton he tells me that 
all of the leather not used in the collection has to be burned
after the season.
- he save some, donating  for my project.
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ESCAPED PIECES FROM LV

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Looking at techniques of leather beautification _
 
http://www.instructables.com/id/Leather-Pyrography/
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M U S E 1

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R O B E R T 
R A U S C H E N B E R G _

- DECONSTRUCTION AND COLLAGE, REMINDING ME OF MAHAMA
AND QUILTING/ FIXING CLOTHES TECHNIQUES../
- colour palette inspiration
- REF: TATE.ORG images

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H O M E L E S S
V I S A G E _
 
- TRENDS IN HOMEESS STYLING
- ONE OF THE FIRST DESIGNERS USING STARTING 
- VIVIENNE WESTWOOD -HOMELESS CHIC F/W 2010

- TARGETING YOUR CUSTOMERS - CELEBRITIES, 
PEOPLE THAT ATTEND FASHION WEEKS- THEY ARE
INFLUENCERS DICTATING TRENDS AND PEOPLE
JUST FOLLOW THEM.
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C O L L A B O R A T I O N   
W I T H
C H L O E   K E L L Y / foundation fine art/ 

ABOUT HER PROJECT :
looking at inanimate objects as things in themselves,
rather than things that are useful to us. So, she took
useful coffee cup lids and made plaster casts, making
them completely useless and dysfunctional. Nevertheless,
the participants in my performance still wanted to swap
their useful lid for one of her useless ones because
they were drawn to the object due to its own qualities
and essences. The reason why she set up the exchange
(and did not just display her plaster lids) was that she did
not want to 'objectify the object' by displaying it
as 'art' - rather, she wanted the objects to continue
their life cycle, something that she had no control over.
This also has connotations to environmental issues,
because the plaster cast lid continues its existence
within the life of the participant who chooses it,
whereas their previous plastic lid would have just
been thrown in the bin, with little thought about its
life-cycle after that (eg. if it is recycled or not,
what amounts of energy go into this, whether it is
just left to decompose or not...).

- all of her coffee lids were donated to support
my project after the performance
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IDEA: 
H  I  D  D  E  N   W  A  S  T  E 
- m e t a p h o r, reflecting on 
ignorance of this problem

UNDER THE SURFACE / layer
/waste touching the skin-gives you anxiety/

note: nobody wants to wear waste, how can
I make it desirable?
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WANG QINGSONG, ref: CSM library, look bibliography

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Hiding coffee lids inside the garment,

boning - using the character of the 
materials
in order to get the best
mouldable results, interesting structure
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Corset pictures from library source 

Ref: :

Waugh, N. (1954). Corsets and crinolines. 1st ed. Reprinted 2000 by Routledge/Theatre Arts Books.

Kunzle, D. (1982). Fashion and fetishism. 1st ed. Totowa, N.J.: Rowman and Littlefield.
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boning in corsets

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T E X T I L E  M A N I P U L A T I O N
INSPIRATION :
WOLFGANAG TILLMAN, TOSHIO SHIBATA, SHAPE OF COFFE ELIDS
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details- revealing beauty- primary research association

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I N N I T I AL    D R A P I N G 
- using the simple rectangle shape as a symbol of waste free dress
- after the process of pattern cutting, there is so much of cut off waste 
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D R A P I N G  D E V E L O P M EN T
 
- using only bigger scale samples/ waste material/  
- joining small rectangle pieces of waste 
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J  U  L  I  U  S    K  O  L  L  E  R
REF: Gallery- momok , Vienna , Austria
 
- conceptual artist , 1980
- inspiration for exhibiting my samples, hanging 
from the ceiling, looking more like a fine art piece rather than fashion.
- neat final touch, samples will be framed 
 
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'' G O D   I S   I N   T H E   D E T A I L '' 
- Ludwig Mies van der Rohe
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W H Y   N O T   
P H O T O S H O O T  
18/04/2017 

 
DESIGN :           S O F I A  T U R E K O V A 
MODEL :                     T I I   A N S I O 
PHOTOGRAPHY :           G A I L     E V A N S
STYLING :          S O F I A  T U R E K O V A
ASSISTANCE :      O O N A G H    O' H A G A N
                           J O  S I M P S O N 
             P A T R I C I A  W I L L I A M S 
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C R I T E R I A   O F
E T H I C A L   F A S H I O N :

- Countering fast, cheap fashion and
damaging patterns of fashion consumption

- Defending fair wages, working conditions
and workers’ rights

- Supporting sustainable livelihood

-
Addressing toxic pesticide and
chemical use

- Using and / or developing eco-friendly
fabrics and components

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Minimising water use

- Recycling and addressing energy
efficiency and waste

-
Developing or promoting
sustainability standards for fashion

- Resources, training and/ or awareness
raising initiatives

- Animal rights
 
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P O L L U T I O N :
The fashion and textiles industry is the second 
largest generator of pollution
and waste in the
world.
From textile manufacture through to retail and
end-of-life, clothing has a massive impact on
both natural and human resources.
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WHAT IS THE ORIGIN OF MY GARMENT ?
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Primary research-
International Fashion Showcase 2017,
LOCAL-GLOBAL by Mercedez-Benz
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C HA R I T Y / F O U N D A T I O N 
S U P P O R T I N G  E T H I C A L 
 F A S H I O N :

-The Ethical Trading Initiative

-The Fairtrade Foundation

-The World Fair Trade organisation

-The Responsible Purchasing
Initiative

-MADE BY

-Labour Behind the Label: Fashioning
an Ethical Industry

-Pesticide Action Network UK
Social Compliance Organisations
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Unconventional Material- private collection

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W A S T E 
COFFEE CUPS:
“Billions of throwaway cups are used globally 
every year. This is wasteful and harms people,
forests, water and the global climate,” 

the groups, which include Greenpeace,WWF
and Global Witness, said
.

 
- N O N R E C Y C L A B L E
C O F F E E C A P S U L E S

"The capsules can't be recycled easily because
they are often made of a mixture of plastic
and aluminium
," adds Jan Dube, spokesman of
the Hamburg Department of the Environment
and Energy.

REF/ BBC.CO.UK
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Primary research- Coffee capsule

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EDIBLE DRESS IDEA
- seaweed
- ricesheets

PRO: ecological, solving the hunger
nutrition for skin
CONS: not flexible, partly waterproof 
or not at all,
If you wear it the whole day and you 
sweat, you won't be able to eat it
after wards. 
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REF: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Seaweed_farming#Envir
onmental_and_ecological_impacts


SEAWEEDFARMING

Seaweed farming is the practice of cultivating 
and harvesting SEAWEED.
In its simplest form, it consists of the
management of naturally found batches. In
its most advanced form, it consists of fully
controlling the life cycle of the algae.

Seaweed farming has frequently been developed
as an alternative to improve economic conditions
and to reduce fishing pressure and over exploited
fisheries.
The high demand in seaweed production
provides plentiful opportunities and work for
the local community.

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 I D E A : 

making my own textile material for this project 

To be discussed :
time consuming- will I be able to make it in 2 months?
 

 

 

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creating bacterial cellulose

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S. Lee grows her fabrics using bacterial cellulose.
Cellulose is an organic compounds. 
Products : tea bags, paper 

GREEN TEA: 
relaxing, beneficial to skin, renewing skin cells

- it would be great to create the fabric that con-
tains green tee
elements.

CONS: same as edible dress, very fragile structure,
not waterproof
 
 
 
 
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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 Christopher Kelly

-presentation on collaborating with Greenpeace 

 

 

 

 

STEP BY STEP TO FIND
SOLUTIONS : 

 

1. what bothers you / spot the problem 
2. analyse 
3. propose a solution 
4. design and presentation
 
 
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U L I 
   
W E S T P H A L :
SUPERNATURAL 
- series of light-boxes that show 
utopian, super-symmetric,
over-saturated landscapes
which are fabricated from the
depictions of animals, plants
and landscapes found on food
packaging from Supermarkets
 
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Supernatural- netto

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Supernatural-albertons

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Westphal, U., Supernatural. Available at: http://www.uliwestphal.de/supernatural/index.html (Accessed: 21 February 2017).
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 M O R E   T H A N

S E V E N  B I L I O  N

P E O P L E  O N T H E

P L A N E T  U S E

T E X T I L E S 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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YIN XIUZHEN, Ref: Instagram

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HUMANS ALTERING

THE LANDSCAPE
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Container terminal, Yangshan deep-water port, China

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HENRIK SPOHLER Gas containers, Rotterdam Harbor, Netherlands

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MUSHROOMS CAN SAVE THE WORLD 
sais PAUL STAMETS


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Fungus eating platics- eco recycling

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fungi process of recycling

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Miles Away From Home

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Globe

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G A B  R I E L   O R O Z C O

- lovely working in tones 
- beautification of randomly found objects

 

 

 

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Story telling objects

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Reference from Tongyao Guan, my roomate, 
Copenhagen Dennmark 2016,
Exhibition of Broken Relationships

- narrative objects, description of 
hidden emotions and associations to the objects 


- items are story telling/ like clothes?
 
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shibata

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Stream #3

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Stream #39

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R E F :
Jonathan Smith photography ,Available at: http://www.jonathansmithphotography.com/
(Accessed: 20 February 2017)
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T e r j e

E k s t r ø m_

- Norwegian industrial design

- organic forms, multifunctional design



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Multi-chair 1992

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R E F:
Hagstromer, D. (ed.) (2016) Ekstrom extreme:
Norwegian industrial design and furniture culture
.
Germany: Arnoldsche.
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Yang Yongliang- Heavenly City No.2

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STROMATOLITES

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Anne Percoco - Indra's cloud

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Tschabala Self- Black Love

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Primary research- Victoria Miro Museum
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Laundry lint sample

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D E S I G N  
P R I N C I P L E S_

According to Dieter Rams, good design:

1. Is innovative
2.
Makes a product useful
3. Is aesthetic
4.
Makes a product understandable
5.
Is unobtrusive
6.
Is honest
7.
Is long-lasting
8.
Is thorough down to the last detail
9.
Is environmentally friendly
10.
Involves as little design as possible

 

 

 

 

 

 

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DARNING / Ref: Pinterest

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TEL AVIV MUSEUM/Ref: instagram

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- pilling unwanted clothes - / fibres/ 
= W A S T E 
 
-  shape reference
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Primary Research Design Muesum

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Michelangulo Pistoletto- Venus of the Rags/ Ref: Tate.org.uk

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JIM DRAIN/ sightunseen.com

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primary research association- squeezing

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Black Friday crazyness/Ref: google images

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Garbage People

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

S T U D I O  O R T A
 
 
- CONCEPT OF SOCIAL LINK 

- BODY ARCHITECTURE

-THEME: 
WAR, REFUGEES, SOCIAL AND
 ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES


REF: pinterest, google images
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Lucy Orta- Body Architecture

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Clouds

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body related experiments

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responding to the waste in class

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B U R N I N G

F A B R I C

W A S T E

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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WASTE LUIS VUITTON LEATHER

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 M U S E 

- LOOKING FOR A
'DIRTY LOOKING' FACE - FRECKLES/?/

- A GIRL THAT WOULD LOOK A LITTLE
BIT SCI-FI OR UTOPIAN BUT ALSO
VERY BEAUTIFUL.
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REF/Google Images

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C A N  I 
D O  T H E  O P P O S I T E ?
W A S T E  N O T  L O O K I N G  L I K E
W A S T E   B U T  S T E R I L E, C L E A N
A N D   C O U T U R E   L I K E

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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performance CSM - 16/03

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ISAAC LOPEZ DE REZA- FIne Art exhibition at CSM street

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B E A U T I F I C A T I O N   
O F  W A S T E
I N    M Y   T E X T I L E
 
-only using pollution/ waste FREE methods
-that means no MELTING- carcinogenic
 
ONLY sustainable techniques : 
-chopping, squeezing, using harmless dye/paint
 
-combining the cut offs waste bits with others
and
joining them together with natural Latex
 

 

 

 

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textile dye

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knitted fabric

shredded credit cards

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MAKING BEADS

breastplate

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REF: Marcuse, T. (2005). Tanya Marcuse : UNDERGARMENT. 1st ed. Tucson, AZ.: Nazraeli Press.

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DONATED WASTE MATERIAL FROM TIGER STORE

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from paper to fabric drape

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Dan Colen, Ref: instagram

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J. Koller

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